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August 17, 2012 by Jean Pavillard

Matterhorn training and ascent

For the last 7 days we enjoyed perfect weather in the Alps. I spend this time with Don Coddington from New york training for the Matterhorn, at first we hiked to the Almageller hut above Saas Almagell near Saas Fee and climb the Dri-Horlini a fantastic rock ridge with perfect granit and awsome views. the next day we traverse Weissmeiss a 4,000 meters peak providing a great mixture of rock, snow and ice climbing. We then rest for a day in Zermatt. For the Matterhorn on day 1 we hiked to the Hornli hut and checked the portion of the climb that is done at night. On August 14th at 4:10 am we started climbing in the dark the first 3 towers, by the old hut where Whymper spend his first night during the first ascent the sunrise started to lit the ridge line. We reached Solvay hut in less then 3 hours continuing right away towards the summit. Condition where perfect and by 8:30 am we were on top. After a well deserve rest we started down, reaching Hornli hut by 1:30 pm. this is the kind of training week that bring success and I congratulate Don. Way to go!

Training on “Dri-Horlini”
Matterhorn summit

 

Filed Under: Swiss Mountain Guide News

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