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Climbing Everest - 29,035 FT. 8,848 M.
NORTH-NORTH EAST RIDGE. TIBETAN SIDE.
Everest 2005 story
Everest Climb - 2005 photos
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
We will drive to Base Camp at 5,200m in 5 days from Lhassa and from there it is a 22 km walk to ABC at 6,400m. We will
have an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days.
From ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier then up the face to the North Col at 7000m where camp 1 is
situated on snow. There is a long angled snow slope to 7,500m where we put camp 2 on a snow ledge. The route from
C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
Camp 3 will be at 7,900m on shingle platforms. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up
medium angled snow slopes and then again on mixed rock and snow to the camp 4 at 8300m. This camp is normally on
rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the neve to this point. Although you may
not need this to assist with climbing it does however provide a safety line which is useful when you are tired and when the
wind is blowing. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3.
The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in
places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
The NE ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until The First Step.
The First Step is a short rock buttress, which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again
without much height gain until the Second Step. The Second Step is across a series of small ledges, which are sometimes
snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the famous ladder. Again all of this section will be fixed with rope.
Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as
the previous steps there is fixed rope to the small col before the final summit snow slopes. These can be quite steep often
with deep snow, so again we have fixed rope to the summit rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced
ridge to THE SUMMIT.
PROPOSED EVEREST ITINERARY
End of March Assemble in Kathmandu
April 02: Fly Kathmandu - Lhasa (11,800 ft./ Tibet)
03 Sightseeing and acclimatisation in Lhasa
04 Lhasa
05 Drive by jeep from Lhasa - Xigatse (3,900m/12,797ft)
06 Drive from Xigatse - Tingri (4,200m/13,779ft)
07 Sightseeing and acclimatisation in Tingri
08 Drive Tingri - BC (5,400m / 18,252 ft.)
09-14 Acclimatisation at BC
15 walk to interim, camp (total 22 km w/yaks)
16 walk to advance base camp (6,400m/21,632ft)
4/17 – 6/2 climbing
camp 1 (7,000m/23,660ft) up East Rongbuk glacier toward north col
camp 2 (7,400m/25,012ft) up long reasonable slope
camp 3 ( 7,900m/ 26,702ft) traditionally windy -up series of rock and shingle
step-camp on rock
camp 4 (8,400m/28,392ft) traverse across a series of rock steps then up
medium angles snow slopes then mixed rock & snow – camp on
rock
Summit day: The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are
quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen
equipment on.
The NE ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress
which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second
Step. The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder
and then up the ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle
mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the
col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where
there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit.
6/3 walk from advance base camp to base camp
6/4 “ “
6/5 Packing at base camp
6/6 Drive to Zangmu
6/7 Drive to Kathmandu
6/8 Kathmandu – packing
6/9 depart Kathmandu
Plan extra days for weather and others. June 15.
Spring season:
Approximately 75 – 80 days end of March until mid-June
Expedition organize on a custom basis only
Cost: call for details ( Jean cell: + 1-970-209-3980)
EVEREST EQUIPMENT LIST:
Clothing:
Casual clothing for travel
Sets polypro shirts (2)
Light weight shirts (2)
Heavyweight shirts (2)
Fleece jacket
Wind jacket
Down jacket
Pair down pants or down suit
Pair lightweight trousers
Pair heavyweight trousers
Pair fleece trouser or salopettes
Pair wind pants
Sets polypro long johns (2)
Underwear’s
Pair shorts
Pairs lightweight gloves (2)
Pair heavy mitts
Pair down mitts
Pair ski gloves
Sun hat
Heavyweight warm hat
Headband, scarf or neck gaiter
Pairs lightweight walking socks (4)
Pairs climbing socks (6)
Sleeping:
Sleeping bags (2)
Foam mat (2)
Footwear:
Plastic boots (one sport –Millet style)
Trekking boots
Pair gaiter
Lightweight running shoe
Equipment:
Harness
Karabiners (2)
Screw lock karabiners (2)
Descender
Ascenders (2)
Slings
Prussic loops
Ice axe
Pair of crampons
Head lamps & spare bulbs
Pocket knife
Pair sunglasses
Pair goggles
Pee bottle
Large pack
Day pack
Personal:
Camera, video
Repair kit
Reading material
Music
Personal first aid kit
Writing material
Sun & lip creams
Water bottle, thermos (2)
Personal toilet equipment
Batteries for head lamp, DVD, CD player, etc….
Passport
Money
Personal travel insurance
GROUP EQUIPEMENT:
Tents
Stoves & pots
Heater
Solar panel
Chargers
Satellite phones
Food
Oxygen:
Each person will have 6 bottles and base on previous experience we will have an extra reserve of 6 bottles per team of
two.
NORTH-NORTH EAST RIDGE. TIBETAN SIDE.
Everest 2005 story
Everest Climb - 2005 photos
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
We will drive to Base Camp at 5,200m in 5 days from Lhassa and from there it is a 22 km walk to ABC at 6,400m. We will
have an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days.
From ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier then up the face to the North Col at 7000m where camp 1 is
situated on snow. There is a long angled snow slope to 7,500m where we put camp 2 on a snow ledge. The route from
C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
Camp 3 will be at 7,900m on shingle platforms. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up
medium angled snow slopes and then again on mixed rock and snow to the camp 4 at 8300m. This camp is normally on
rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the neve to this point. Although you may
not need this to assist with climbing it does however provide a safety line which is useful when you are tired and when the
wind is blowing. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3.
The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in
places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
The NE ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until The First Step.
The First Step is a short rock buttress, which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again
without much height gain until the Second Step. The Second Step is across a series of small ledges, which are sometimes
snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the famous ladder. Again all of this section will be fixed with rope.
Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as
the previous steps there is fixed rope to the small col before the final summit snow slopes. These can be quite steep often
with deep snow, so again we have fixed rope to the summit rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced
ridge to THE SUMMIT.
PROPOSED EVEREST ITINERARY
End of March Assemble in Kathmandu
April 02: Fly Kathmandu - Lhasa (11,800 ft./ Tibet)
03 Sightseeing and acclimatisation in Lhasa
04 Lhasa
05 Drive by jeep from Lhasa - Xigatse (3,900m/12,797ft)
06 Drive from Xigatse - Tingri (4,200m/13,779ft)
07 Sightseeing and acclimatisation in Tingri
08 Drive Tingri - BC (5,400m / 18,252 ft.)
09-14 Acclimatisation at BC
15 walk to interim, camp (total 22 km w/yaks)
16 walk to advance base camp (6,400m/21,632ft)
4/17 – 6/2 climbing
camp 1 (7,000m/23,660ft) up East Rongbuk glacier toward north col
camp 2 (7,400m/25,012ft) up long reasonable slope
camp 3 ( 7,900m/ 26,702ft) traditionally windy -up series of rock and shingle
step-camp on rock
camp 4 (8,400m/28,392ft) traverse across a series of rock steps then up
medium angles snow slopes then mixed rock & snow – camp on
rock
Summit day: The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are
quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen
equipment on.
The NE ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress
which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second
Step. The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder
and then up the ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle
mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the
col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where
there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit.
6/3 walk from advance base camp to base camp
6/4 “ “
6/5 Packing at base camp
6/6 Drive to Zangmu
6/7 Drive to Kathmandu
6/8 Kathmandu – packing
6/9 depart Kathmandu
Plan extra days for weather and others. June 15.
Spring season:
Approximately 75 – 80 days end of March until mid-June
Expedition organize on a custom basis only
Cost: call for details ( Jean cell: + 1-970-209-3980)
EVEREST EQUIPMENT LIST:
Clothing:
Casual clothing for travel
Sets polypro shirts (2)
Light weight shirts (2)
Heavyweight shirts (2)
Fleece jacket
Wind jacket
Down jacket
Pair down pants or down suit
Pair lightweight trousers
Pair heavyweight trousers
Pair fleece trouser or salopettes
Pair wind pants
Sets polypro long johns (2)
Underwear’s
Pair shorts
Pairs lightweight gloves (2)
Pair heavy mitts
Pair down mitts
Pair ski gloves
Sun hat
Heavyweight warm hat
Headband, scarf or neck gaiter
Pairs lightweight walking socks (4)
Pairs climbing socks (6)
Sleeping:
Sleeping bags (2)
Foam mat (2)
Footwear:
Plastic boots (one sport –Millet style)
Trekking boots
Pair gaiter
Lightweight running shoe
Equipment:
Harness
Karabiners (2)
Screw lock karabiners (2)
Descender
Ascenders (2)
Slings
Prussic loops
Ice axe
Pair of crampons
Head lamps & spare bulbs
Pocket knife
Pair sunglasses
Pair goggles
Pee bottle
Large pack
Day pack
Personal:
Camera, video
Repair kit
Reading material
Music
Personal first aid kit
Writing material
Sun & lip creams
Water bottle, thermos (2)
Personal toilet equipment
Batteries for head lamp, DVD, CD player, etc….
Passport
Money
Personal travel insurance
GROUP EQUIPEMENT:
Tents
Stoves & pots
Heater
Solar panel
Chargers
Satellite phones
Food
Oxygen:
Each person will have 6 bottles and base on previous experience we will have an extra reserve of 6 bottles per team of
two.
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Everest Dispatch
March 27 to June 5, 2005
March 27 to June 5, 2005
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