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Details on personal and group equipment:
Introduction
Having the appropriate equipment to meet the varied conditions while participating on an expedition will go a long way
toward assuring a comfortable, successful and safe trip. The following information is presented as a supplement to the
personal equipment list and group equipment list. Please study this information carefully and if you have any questions
please contact me.
Down versus synthetic fibers:
Synthetic clothing are a must wicking the moisture from the body and very quick to dry.
Down jacket and sleeping bag are warm , light and very compact. Synthetic sleeping bag and jacket are very warm but
much more bulky and heavier, more recommended for wet climate.
The feet:
For socks, I recommend a thin synthetic under sock to be worn in conjunction with an expedition weight synthetic sock. It is
important the socks do not fit too tight.
As for the value of the vapor barrier liner sock, I have found this layer tends to make the feet fell colder. On expedition I
use vapor barrier liner socks only on the lower part of the mountain when it is very warm. Avoid using neoprene socks,
waterproof coated nylon is best.
Expedition Plastic boots are a must. Common brand use are Sportiva, Lowa, Asolo, Koflach, Scarpa, One Sport or Millet.
The main consideration is the fit. Be sure to leave room in the toe to compensate for swelling in the feet and for coming
down. It is advise to do some hiking, climbing with your boots before the expedition. If you have a choice of inner boots,
get the Alveolite liner. This is a close cell foam which retard moisture penetration and dries quickly.
For mountaineering a leather boots works better, it will allow you to rock climb, scramble and hike comfortably. The new
leather boots a very waterproof, light and warm. Get a semi-rigid boot. Rigid leather boots are good on ice climb but
perform poorly on hikes and mountaineering is a combination of many activities.
Gaitors will be necessary ( unless you use the One sport, Millet boot type that include the gaiter) you will find on the
market overboots and supergaiter. If you chosse overboots make sure to readjust your crampons since it will make your
boots several size bigger.
A good brand overboot is –40below. Supergaiter are made by Berghaus.
Tent booties are very useful to change into after reaching camp. Make sure they are large enough, comfortable.
In considering your foot wear, please remember that your feet are most vulnerable to frostbite. As you become acclimated
to high altitude your blood thickens and your circulation decrease. Exhaustion and dehydration can also contribute to poor
circulation. Lots of fluids and sufficient rest are helpful. Take every opportunity to dry your equipment each day, evening.
The hands:
There are great Mittens and gloves on the market. Many good combination, the main consideration is adequate layers of
insulation that will allow for the greatest dexterity and adjustment to temperature.
For use at ;lower elevation I recommend a light weight capilene gloves that will protect you from solar radiation and cold
spot. A pair of mid weight can be added for the early morning start, shaded zone along the way.
For extreme cold you will need a well insulated mitten with a nylon Gore-Tex shell.
The head and face:
Insulating your head and face is as necessary as the consideration you give the rest of your body. For down low on the
glacier I recommend a visor cap. I recommend a neoprene ski mask for extreme condition and a capilene balaclava for
additional insulation and a good hat that cover well the ears. Bring an extra one in case. A neck gaiter is also
recommended.
The eyes:
Good high altitude sun-glasses are absolutely necessary on all expeditions. Side-guards are recommended. The lenses
should block 95 % of ultraviolet and infrared rays. Your high altitude glasses should be of very good quality. I also
recommend a pair of goggles with UV protection. Bring an extra pair of sun-glasses. If you wear contact lenses make sure
the system you use has been tested before the expedition and bring extra glasses.
Clothing:
From the waist down:
Expedition:
The layering system I recommend for the lower body begin with a light to mid- weight capileine underwear followed by
stretch fleece or climbing pants. In cold condition I like to replace the stretch fleece by down pants or primaloft pants. You
should be able to cover all the layers by a bib Gore-Tex pants.
From the waist up:
Expedition:
The layering I recommend from the waist up begins with a light weight capilene or silk underwear followed by an mid-
weight to expedition weight capilene underwear top with zip t-neck. Next I recommend a fleece, synchilla, wind stopper
jacket. The final layer is a goretex jacket and a down jacket . The down jacket is mostly use at camp except in extreme
cold condition.
Sleeping bag and pads:
Expedition:
Just a good sleeping bag is not enough. You need good insulation from the ground and the use of a full length thermarest
is crucial, plus a non inflatable pad like karrimat, a crazy creek chair is useful for sitting in the tent during meal time and
resting. Your sleeping bag should be rated at least –30 deg. C.
In addition bring a goretex biwy bag, make sure you bag is down fill.
Pack:
Find a pack that is your size (length of your back) and is big enough for expedition but rarely you will need more then
5,000 cubic inches or 80 L. The pack weight is also a factor. Mountaineering day pack , 40-45 L. Alpine ski
mountaineering 45-50L
Ice axe and ski poles:
Choose a general mountaineering ice axe 60cm in length. Across low angle slope you can use ski poles, on steeper slope
holding an ice axe uphill 60 cm should be enough. Ice axe that are too long are cumbersome. Ski pole should be
collapsible.
Crampons:
Choose general mountaineering crampons either with straps (more versatile) or with step in binding (easier and faster).
The key is to have an attachment system that is easy so on cold day you can attach them with your gloves on.
Ascender, rappelling device:
Ascender are needed for fix rope, the best kind have a big handle so you can manipulate them with mitts. Descender, A
figure eight maybe the easiest of all especially in very cold condition, many other type exist but think in term of ease of use
in difficult condition.(like frozen rope)
Harness:
Alpine mountaineers use only a seat harness and it is fine, on bigger mountain ranges were you are require to carry
more, the glaciers are much bigger and move faster, a full body harness provide more support. You can use either a full
body harness or a combination of seat harness with a chest harness.
Duffel bag and stuff sacks:
You will need duffel bag for airline travel but also one for the glacier and in some instance for the approach. Make sure
they have a large zipper for ease of access.
Take many stuff sacks, tape and marker so all the gear, food and other items can be organized and marked. If a cache is
organize on the glacier it may be hard to find your gear if it is not organized and marked. I suggest that you mark each
stuff sack with tape and write the content. Have extras.
Eating utensils:
You can find nice plastic bowl with lid (microwave style 1,5 pints size) insulated cup with lid, nylon or steel spoon and fork (
most outdoor shop have a good selection )
Bring along a thermos .75 to 1 L. plus a wide mouth water bottle with insulation.
Lunches and snacks:
Bring snacks that you will enjoy eating over a long period of time, variety is key.
Description and quantity:
Power bar types 2 per day
Power gel 3 per day
Hard candy ½ pound per week
Gorp or trail mix 1 pound per week
Bread, bagel, cracker ½ bagel per day
Cheese, salami, jerky ½ pound per week
Drink mix for water bottle 1 qt. Mix for each day
Hot cider mix, hot chocolate, etc.. 1 cup for evening hot brew
Add some cookies, chocolates. For the first couple of days bring fresh fruits, vegetables like carrots then any goodies
that will taste incredible good after weeks away.
I suggest that your pack at least a week ahead of your departure giving you plenty of time to review, check, fix gear if
needed. Make sure your batteries are new and you have replacement, and keep a precise list of what you pack in each
bag.
Note:
Expedition:
Be prepare for cold temperature ( -40 degres.C), wind as well as intense sun. Vapor barrier socks are recommended for
eliminating condensation build up which then freezes. Meticulous care will save much discomfort and avoid frostbite.
Group equipment I will supplies:
Ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, snow saws, wands, comprehensive first aid kit, repair kit, sledges, cooking platforms,
stoves, lighters, fuel, tents, satellite phone, radios and all provision. ( if you have special dietary needs, please let me
know).
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